Men Are Born Free, Yet Everywhere We Are In Chains: Otto_985

Otto 985 is a cultural platform created by Kiko Kostandinov in London and Moran Moran Gallery in Los Angeles.  With this endeavor under Kostandinov, he has managed to utilize his talents to more than just a high fashion approach. Kostandinov’s self-titled project entails many pieces that cater to more of an avant-garde audience; boots that look as if they’re from the movie DUNE and tattered torn crewneck jumpers.  But there are also pieces that look as if they would cater to a person living in eastern Europe in the 1920s. 

CEDID RIB PULLOVER DARK BLUE

Otto 985, Kostandinov takes a much more casual approach.  But not casual in a ‘lazier’ take.  Otto 985 offers traditional trousers, tees, sweatshirts, and accessories but with the same creative integrity as Kostandinov’s other projects.  The website for example.  This is where Otto_985 shines.  Upon entrance to the website, the viewer is greeted with a message on the top center of the home page,

 ‘The information on this website is based on our experience to date and we believe it to be reliable.  It is intended only as a guide for use at your own discretion and risk.  We cannot guarantee favorable results and assume no liability in connection with its use or of the products described.’

This message is a clear example of what to expect with the entire Otto 985 theme, personal experience.  Although Otto 985’s collections are not quite to the same artistic standard physically as his main project, it’s the overarching themes he conveys that make this phenomenon more than just clothing.  The mask is the main eye-catcher, other than the Otto name itself.  The bulging eyes of the anonymous model peeking through the mask convey a sense of slight liminality.  Most of his pieces are a display of different descriptions. 

Some have more in common with others, depending on which collection it falls under.  In the ‘Spooky Bauhaus’ collection, each description reads from what appears to be a part of a script from a random horror movie.  This includes movies such as Get Out (2017), Night of the Living Dead (1968), and Halloween (1978). 

There are others as well.  Certain descriptions contain excerpts from the book The Time Machine by H.G. Wells.  The site seems to be much more personal than Kiko Kostandinov’s other endeavors. 

A great example of this is the initial art exhibit that was opened in 2019 in Moran Moran. 

Each piece is inspired by bits and pieces of his life growing up in Bulgaria, and the ‘traditional’ Kostandinov flair that encompasses most of his designs. 

The exhibit featured various pieces.  Some spanning from modified Bulgarian bags which is a specific type of weight training system, to a modified Kiko Kostandinov trench coat interwoven with ‘Travis Perkin’ sponsored Rugby jerseys.  Travis Perkins is a British builders’ merchant and home improvement retailer.  Kostandinov spent his formative days in his birthplace of Bulgaria and eventually moved to England where he attended Central Saint Martins, where he eventually made his name as a designer quickly after graduating.  This blend of literally stitching onto his own coat, a British-sponsored article of clothing, seems to represent a key moment in his life. 

Otto 95.8 Instillation

The entire exhibit seems to be very personal, which is an excellent parallel to what the Otto_985 theme seems to encompass.  And quite honestly highlights the difference between the Kiko Kostandinov brand and Ottos_985.  It also just seems like a nice change for Kostandinov.  It is refreshing to see Kostandinov take more of an everyday approach to his designs that are typically otherworldly. 

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